The Transfagarasan Challange

Transfagarasan 0aAs you finally clear the grinding congestion that passes for traffic in Bucharest and venture onto the highway to Pitesti, your spirits are already rising and it almost feels like you can fly. Hitting the start of the highway is the real start to the journey to drive across the Transfagarasan pass. So why bother??

Put very simply, the Transfagarasan road (DN 7C) is just the road that passes through Fagaras Mountains (the highest mountains in Romania – Moldoveanu peak – 2544 meters) and that connects Walachia and Transylvania.

The Transfagarasan road is, however, much more than that. It is the road that climbs to the highest altitude in Romania, 2042 meters, in the Glacial Hollow Balea. It has two traffic lanes of 92 kilometers long. Because of the countless turns (and in many places the poor condition of the road surface), the average speed is maximum 40 km per hour. Along this route there are 27 viaducts and bridges, and the longest road tunnel in Romania – 887 meters, that passes through Paltin Mountains, from Capra to Balea Lake. The traffic lane inside the unlighted tunnel is only 6 meters wide and there is a one metre broad pavement. Using your lights is essential in the tunnel as the road surface is worse than Iancu Nicolae and you do not want to damage your vehicle unnecessarily.

Transfagarasan 1aTourists who would like attempt the Transfagarasan challenge are advised to climb it from South to the North. Romania’s most famous road runs from Arefu village (at km 61 of DN7C) in the county of Arges, to the county of Sibiu, somewhere near Cartisoara village (at the crossroad with DN1). The easiest way to get there from Bucharest is to take the highway to Pitesti until it ends then follow the signs for Curtea de Arges. You will pass through a series of villages to Curtea de Arges, then pass through the town following signs for Lac Balea. Keep following these signs and you are on the way up to the top.

The road surface going up is badly worn in places so be prepared to take a slightly indirect route in places, and there was one large hole that managed a remarkable impression of a well due to it’s size and depth. The driver also needs to be prepared for regular distractions as the landscape is a fantastic mix of peaks, lakes and the occasional waterfall. There is a more to be prepared for as the differences of altitude and the frequent and often tight curves represent a challenge for both cars and drivers. The final hazard is the somewhat erratic driving pattern of some of your fellow motorists, but this must be due to the aforementioned hazards to progress.

Unfortunately, because of the weather conditions, Transf?g?r??an Road is opened for only a few months every year, usually from July until October. The most important tourist attractions are Vidraru Lake and Vidraru Dam, which is one of the greatest in Europe, then Poenari Fortress (built in the time of Vlad Tepes), Balea Glacial Lake and Balea Waterfall.

As well as being a very entertaining drive, the road has an interesting history. The Transfagarasan pass was built between 1970 and 1974, which means that it took less time to complete than the ongoing project to widen Sos. Iancu Nicolae. This is a short summary of some of the (approximate, naturally) background numbers.

For the pass itself:

  • 3 million tons of hard rocks were shifted
  • 830 transverse works and 290,000 cubic meters of masonry were made for the 92 km of road

For the Capra – Balea Tunnel there were excavated over 41,000 cubic meters of rocks and they used:

  • 20 tones of dynamite
  • 3 573 tones of cement
  • 89 tones of concrete steel
  • 24,000 anchors
  • 129 tones of brazed nets
  • 14,200 square meters of encasements
  • 1,750 meters of concrete tubes, 4,100 meters of pipes
  • 50 tones of metal composites
  • 6,900 cubic meters of grit
  • 6,000 cubic meters of gravel
  • 3,000 tones of crushed rocks
  • 740 lighting lamps.

Many sacrifices were made to build the road that leads to the sky. Before its construction, it was impossible to cross these mountains, not even on horseback. But it is said that once, before becoming president, Nicolae Ceausescu stopped by Arefu village and the idea of a road that passed through the mountains crossed his mind, possibly a strategic pass from a military perspective to allow the movement of troops etc. in case of war. Whatever the reason for the start of the project, many men lost their lives during the construction process. There are, unsurprisingly, no official records of the total of fatalities but the survivors estimate that more than 100 lives were sacrificed to construct the pass.

Transfagarasan 2aIf you are driving south to north, once you reach the top the view unfolds before you. The vista stretches out down the mountain and onto the plains beyond. The road looks like someone has shaken a ribbon and dropped it onto the terrain below it has so many twists and turns. There are many places to stop throughout the journey. You can choose to just admire the spectacular views and take photos or you can really immerse yourself in the day and purchase some of the fine souvenirs that are available and maybe try a local delicacy such as mici from the grill (with the obligatory beer if you are not the designated driver). If you are intent on enjoying some food then remember that the onward route is likely to be somewhat twisty so if you have a delicate stomach plan accordingly.

If you are at a loose end having completed the Transfagarasan adventure, Sibiu is not too far to drive and it is well worth a visit and an overnight stay if possible. It is a beautiful city with a well ordered city centre as befits a European Capital of Culture. Bucharest will never seem quite the same again….

Bucharest Expat Contributing Author

Andy Symmonds

Bucharest, Romania

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  • Sunshine

    What a fantastic article. I have heard people talking about this journey but didn’t have any details. I feel inspired to get a few people together to make the trip, that way we can share the driving and all have a chance to see the sights along the way. Romania is such a beautiful country and I want to see as much as possible in my time here.

  • Evelyn

    Wow! This sounds like a trip that nearly every tourist would love to take. I know we thoroughly enjoy getting off the beaten track and on to back roads so that we can see the beautiful things that the major roads bypass. This will be one of the first things we do once we get there.

  • http://www.adventuremotomania.com Aliscot

    Cool…rode it on a bike one weekend, hairy, scary, but extreme fun. We actually got a puncture at about 8.00pm at night on one of the bikes, and by the time got it repaired,(not easy on a bike!)we got down the other side, 2.30 am… and the first pension was still open and serving cold beer and food. What a night!!

  • Raspberry

    I can’t imagine doing this on a bike! You must be braver than me, or perhaps just younger! I found the downhill journey quite the once in a lifetime experience, but I’d like to do it again and keep my eyes open!

  • Sundown

    The beauty of it all is well worth the effort it takes. It is really something you should not miss if you are visiting!

  • http://www.bucharestexpat.com Bucharest Expat

    This road has got to be one of the coolest looking roads out there! I wonder how long it will take to become a “heavily traveled” destination in and of itself so much so that it will be a line of sports cars and bikes “waiting” to experience the thrill. The autobahn is more congestion than speed right now.

  • Long lens

    I really want to do this before it is closed for the season, who knows if I will be here next July. I bet there are some fantastic photo opportunities and I can’t pass that up. If anyone reading has done it I’d like to know how you felt at that altitude.

  • Dawn Diva

    That sounds like a good plan. The article mentions you can stay in Sibui afterwards if you want to make a mini trip out of it. I would definitely do that because then you can make the return journey in the daylight and enjoy the views all over again!

  • asymmo

    Unless you are very susceptible to altitude it should not be an issue. If you do start to feel some adverse effects (a headache is usually an early indicator) then descending will make them fade very quickly. An aspirin will also help if you have one to hand.
    If you plan to walk around at the top, take something warm to wear as it does get chilly.

  • Lemontop

    I’d love to do this but as I get car sick at the best of times I will probably miss out. I am much better in bigger vehicles, so if there are any bus tours I would be able to join.

  • Lynne-Teacher

    I am hoping not before next weekend, when I am hoping to make this journey along with some very kind Romanian friends who are going to do all the driving. I’m really excited as not only do I often have to work on Saturday or Sunday I have not really seen anything of this lovely country.

  • Worldwise

    Wow – just read the section about all of the work that went into creating this – many men died to create it! So sad! But it is beautiful!

  • Babs

    It is breathe taking and I can’t wait to see it. I agree it is truly sad that so many lost their lives to build this. I see so many things I want to do and if I don’t move I will have to make numerous trips.

  • isis

    I do not think I will get a chance to see it before it closes this year but I defiantly will put it on my list of things that I want to see/do!

  • JustCuz

    Places like this take my breath away. I can’t believe such terrible things have happened in such a horrible place. One day I would like to visit and maybe even help the people there.

  • Leslie

    What an absolutely beautiful scenery. You guys really are lucky to get to experience things like this. I wish I had the money to check this place out!

  • micky

    I actually did get to have this wonderful experience this year. I expected it to be challenging and breathtaking and it was both, more than I knew it would be. Was totally worth it!

  • nibbler

    This looks like a trip not for the faint of heart. I would definitely not want to go alone, nor in bad weather. The bus trip idea sounded great. Is that an option?

  • http://www.bucharestexpat.com Bucharest Expat

    So we just did another drive of the highway, heading towards Arges from Sibiu, and this time we traveled from a fall climate to a winter climate at the very top. We went from windows down to windows up. Snow at the top this time and the roads were beginning to get a bit scary. Our worries were “lessened” when a parade of VW beetles and various other classic cars were coming back down the mountain towards us (last but not least was a 1959 Caddy DeVille). We’ll have some more stories and photos of this and more of our ’round Romania road trip coming up here shortly.

  • Nick Hales

    Sorry? Help who here? If you want to help anyone, try helping the guys in the Dubliner Irish pub.

  • Nick_hales

    It’s called motion sickness.

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